"Printing Flags and Labels" Topic

Hello

I have a couple questions I would like advice on.

1. I play in a smaller scale, and have been purchasing flags. Looking at them, I wouldn't say I am not satisfied, but I am sure an equal quality could be done on a decent home printer.

I had been doing some tests on basic copy paper. These were okay. I have done research on DPI and printing. I think these are two factors. A very high DPI image, and the other the paper quality. I accidentally printed on a thicker cardstock I use for invitations, and it was more vivid. It was too thick to use for a flag though.

Has anyone found a sweet spot before I go and buy a bunch of different papers? I wonder if gloss, decent weight, photo paper would be best, and then matte varnish to seal before application.

I like supporting GMB and the like, but this is a smaller scale. For 28mm GMB and the rest are a steal in value and beauty, but for smaller scales I would just like something solid and not pixelated, because it is too small for the grandeur of those flags. But I would also like to maximize the color and print quality.

2. Lately as my collection grows and a tiny bit, some recent posts, I am concerned a bit with labeling my figures. It is a bit morbid, but I put so much into them, if something happens to me, even if they are sold off I would like my research to easily transfer. Anyone else find a system that works best? Obviously can take some white paint and then sharpie on the bottom. Sometimes I wonder about using a high quality paper in a very tiny typeface, and making a 2mm strip on the back of a base. Just wondering what others have come up with. Maybe not as many care.

Just curious for any input, before I work these out the hard way. Thanks very much.

For flags I use Hammermill Color Laser Gloss, 32lb, 94 brightness. On the back is the number 163110. On the back there is also a diagram showing which side to print on. I just now noticed that. I don't know which side I have been using.

I do not have a laser printer. I have used this paper on two different Canon inkjet printers. I use only Canon ink. Obviously, I print at the highest quality setting.

Regarding labeling, I don't care for those that can be seen during play. I use removable adhesive labels on the bottom. I just use a pen. They are utilitarian only. I do include the colonel's name if I know it.

Tom

I'd be very interested in any thoughts on this as I use paper flags for old style 1/72-25mm figures from Napflags. I don't have a perfect answer but some observations.

As you've mentioned, paper quality is critical. I have printed with high quality on standard paper and it is a mess. The same quality on photographic paper is perfect but a bit too thick and glossy. The best I have found is discarded off cuts from A1 plotter paper but I'm running out now. This has a slight sheen and the right thickness. I use best quality and photographic paper settings and override the printer message with the plotter paper. I have an Epson inkjet printer and previously an HP one.

I'd be a bit wary about varnishing. I found that PVA type glues caused the ink to run so I imagine acrylic varnish would do the same but haven't tried. Possibly enamel varnish will work. I use Bostik or superglue to glue the flags.

Having made & sold printed flags for quite a while now I can very much agree than paper is actually more important than ink quality.

90gsm – 100gsm paper is what I use for the flags I produce and I do use a colour laser. I did try inkjet but the brightness of the colours isn't as good as a laser and you do need to be that bit more careful when gluing them to avoid any problems.

Paper should be thin enough to be flexible and compressed enough to be strong and to prevent glue penetrating too far into the paper to make ink run. Uncoated paper with a medium sizing is best – sometimes referred to as hot or cold pressed. I find gloss papers and matt photo paper tend to be less flexible and difficult to form into a realistic shape, they sometimes crack too.

Ink is a difficult one. I have found that 'official' ink is often of poorer quality than 3rd party ink and always more expensive but I'm sure this will vary between manufacturers. The less ink used the less problem you will have with it running or smudging so don't use photo or other high application rates. Do use highest dpi setting though and leave the printed sheet to dry before cutting and gluing.

I always use PVA to assemble my flags, not the cheapo stuff that has too much water but the builders type, which has less. Apply it with a brush carefully and thinly and shape the flag before the glue dries.

I found that the home printed ones work fine but I usually take it to the local printer and have my flag printed on a professional level color laser printer on the thinnest paper they have. It's not expensive and I get much better color than printing at home.

I then seal with the paper with a gloss coat and finish with 2 coats of matte. Cut out and use!

And do colour the edges – black will normaly do the job!

For flags I use Epson presentation paper matte

It's thin, so can be folded and glued, but the printable side takes ink well and will give brighter colours than ordinary paper. Epson printers have a driver option for this paper

I have not tried non printer brand ink, but I would be worried about fading. As it is, it's hard to find a printer that has light fast ink

I would like to hear ideas about labeling troops.

John

My 15mm flags are downloaded from warflags.com and printed on 80-100gsm paper on my home printer. As they are small the quality is acceptable on a 6ft by 4ft table with lots of battalions on the table.

A couple of recommendations that help.

1. Some flags need more in the middle to wrap around the flagpoles. 15mm always have a larger circumference. So the image may need cropping and more "wrap" inserted. On one sheet I am likely to have the correct size and alternatives 5-10% up and down for the first batch. Go with what pleases you best.

2. Before cutting the flags out do spray the whole sheet with a fixative and let it dry completely. Hairspray will do. This does help to protect the ink from smudging by any PVA that soaks through.

3. Fold the flag in half so you have a crease to guide the flagpole. Stick from the "fly" towards the staff so it lines up easily. Leave it alone for 10minutes then furl and shape to taste.

Good luck.

P.S. I varnish over the top after touching up any white edges.

Important to use the right program to shrink your flags. Don't use a bitmap one like paint. See link link

If the original image is a bitmap then manipulating it with a vector app won't produce a vector image, the result will still be a bitmap.

These days most graphics apps can cope, at least to a limited extent, with both bitmap and vector elements though the format of the resulting file is often a bitmap of one type or other unless the app is specifically vector based (such as CorelDraw).

Thanks for the advice everyone. I will pick up some of this Epson matte paper and give that a try.

I do use the same spray varnish, even if I purchase flags. Ive grown way too tired of ink moving or being removed when applying. Hairspray probably does work if you find some cheaper than varnish. Actual "workable fixative" in the craft store works as well, but most of us have some sort of varnish on hand already.