"Rules Recommendations for WW1 in 10mm scale?" Topic

Hi All
I'm toying with the idea of getting into WW1, but in 10mm scale.
Any recommendations on a set of rules?
I would want a system that fights by BASES, (as I don't like the idea of individual 10mm figs going at each other).
Cheers

Great War Spearhead?

Great War Spearhead?
I assume this is a Spearhead Module / Expansion?
Does it exsist?

Piquet's Barrage Supplement would be ideal for 10mm WWI

Eric Burgess

Square Bashing by Peter Pig.

"Great War Spearhead?
I assume this is a Spearhead Module / Expansion?
Does it exsist?"

Spearhead expansion(Great War Spearhead), yes and you need Spearhead to use GWSH.

It does exist. Stands are companies, instead of platoons as in WWII and modern versions.

You can also use Warhammer Historical's Great War, and just base 3 men to a 25mm base, if you so choose.

Great War Spearhead 2 is about to be released as a stand alone product,apparantly it will be in a couple of months, I presume it will be using the same basing as the original

Steve W is right! It will be a stand alone printed product! I checked with Robert and Shawn regarding GWSH II and Robert was kind enough to pass this along:

""Base sizes are dependant on the size of figures used and to a certain extent the desire of the players. Great War Spearhead II can be played with any scale from micro 2mm up to 25-30mm with no difficulty. It is not a skirmish game, however, and use of 54mm figures may be prohibitive due to the size of the table required. For 1/285th up to 15mm scale figures, bases should be 1-1/4" x 1-1/4" with as many figures as desired on them. However, the exact base size is not critical as long as it is consistent and the play testers used two 15mm scale figures on a 1"x1" base. By increasing the stand proportionately, 25-30mm size figures can easily be used. FO stands should have one or two figures only (depending on figure scale). Dismounted cavalry stands (as opposed to mounted cavalry stands) should feature a mix of mounted and dismounted figures. For example, in 15mm scale, the play testers used 1 foot figure and 1 horse for dismounted cavalry. All artillery pieces and vehicles should be mounted on 1-1/4" x 1-1/4" stands in 1/285th scale. In 15mm or larger, stands are double the size of the infantry/cavalry stands (for example 2-1/2" x 2-1/2"). During play testing, the 15mm artillery and vehicles were on 2"x2" stands. For trench mortars, any mortar battery larger than 104mm or 4" caliber, should be placed on an artillery sized stand. Anything smaller should be placed on a regular infantry type stand. For 37mm caliber artillery, or smaller, use the infantry stand. Otherwise, use an artillery sized stand."

The basing suggestion I posted in the news release will work fine per these two. "I" feel the sizes I posted are best to take advantage of this scale.

GWSH II is nearing completion so look for it coming soon.

Best
Tom Dye
GFI

WooHoo I was right for once

The new Minifigs N scale range looks nice as well ( no fawning here honest!)

That's funny – I just happened to be flipping through my copy of GWSH today for the first time in a couple of years. That quote that Tom has above is directly from the original version, so I'm guessing GWSH II isn't going to stray too far.

GWSH II sounds interesting. The basing certainly works for me.
Cheers

Per Robert and Shawn: The army lists remain the same.

As "I" understand it, only minor typos and the applicable changes to the basic Spearhead rules (that make them WWI specific) so it can be a stand alone set is planned. There could be a few more surprises,("I" am not privy to the rest) but essentially, GWSH II will make playing WWI, using the system, easier to follow and play.

Since I have lost my copy of "I", I am looking forward tto geting my hands on a copy of "II" when they come out! I am painting and organizing my armies now so I can start playing faster when they arrive.

Best
Tom Dye
GFI

Almost forgot! We (GFI) will be releasing Division Starter packs for GWSH II. I have decided to base it on gamers mounting 4 infantry to a base. (If you decide to use less, then I guess you end up with more units, but as the pictures show in our news release (today-see News above)16 figures for a battalion "looks" nice! They paint up fast! A Division is about the minimum a gamer will need to get started in GWSH.

Will announce when the Division Starter Packs are available, here.

Tom Dye
GFI

I for one cant wait…If you need more info you can join the GWSH yahoo group which is an excellent site

link

Dumb question I know, but can we assume the DIV starter packs will work out cheaper than purchasing the equivalent number of individul packs to make a Div?

Piquet's Field of Battle 1900-1914 is currently in playtest at the momemt. Field of Battle is an excellent set of rules. I just finished painting up a 1/72 BEF Division to playtest since I have been reading about Mons and the start of the war (aside from my favorite Eastern Front troops).

Thanks,

John

Yes! It will also contain the proper mix you will need to make the units with.

Often, this is also a savings as sometimes when you build units, you may end up needing an extra figure or two. This usually results in having to purchase another pack just to get those couple of figs. We will make these packs up as I have discussed so one can be assured you will have what the army lists require. As a fellow gamer (and consumer!), that's the way "I" would feel happy in buying such a starter set.

It also adds value since Corps are made up of multiple Divisions. One would only need to purchase multiples of the Division Starter sets for the core units. At the Corps level,the individual packs will provide what you might need as Corps assets.

Not a dumb question at all! 8>)

best
Tom Dye
GFI

"I would want a system that fights by BASES"

It partly depends what level of game you are interested in. Great War Spearhead and Square Bashing both use 1 base = 1 company basing so figures are interchangeable between them. Both are good games but GWSH is a better simulation, the former is aimed at division-corps+ sized actions the latter mroe at reinforced divisions.

I have happily used exactly the same figures with 1 base = 1 platoon sets (like Over the Top) and even for tactical games where 1 base = 1 section (Crossfire works very well for WW1), similarly going the other way where 1 base = 1 battalion for really big battles. The organisations are generally in multiples of three or four so it is easy to scale unit representation up and down with the same kit plus some varying support assets for different levels of game.

Yeah Crossfire works well for WW1 the few times we've used it, mind you we've also used Crossfire for 40K as well

Great War Spearhead….and Piquet 'Barrage'…WW1.
Both should do the trick. The first one is very simple. The second one is much more complicated for those who like that sort of game.

I appear in the credits for both as a technical advisor, so I can recommend both from personal experience working with the authors. Each was thoroughly researched and I spent a lot of time providing lots of information and data. Both rule sets set out to achieve a result via somewhat different methods, but both are very well done.

However I would recommend that you do not overlook Blitzkrieg Commander either. My group easily wargamed WW1 with them. Its just a matter of some different stats really. I was pleased to provide Pete with information too and I know he was just as committed to providing a good rule set as the above two authors were.

I know Pete has abandoned any idea of doing a WW1 game as I think he doesnt find it interesting enough, though I know one of the WIKI's from Canada listed there has a lot of work done on it for WW1…Not sure if I should post a link to someone elses work

Its pretty easy to do WW1 with BKC. Modifications are pretty minimal.

Jim Clark's 10mm 1914 rules, when he gets round to writing them…

The lists needed to use Blitzkreig Commander for WW1 are available from the links section on the BKC website. It's under 'canuckcommander' giving extensive lists for BKC generally
link