YogiBearMinis | 13 Apr 2024 7:29 a.m. PST |
I always flocked my bases for my 15mm armies, usually by using some sort of PVA or tacky glue, then dipping in a bowl of flock. I am thinking of taking it up a notch and using products like Vallejo muds or other textured pastes to "paint" the base, then maybe add a bit of regular flock on top of that. I almost always am using cream-colored Litko bases or similar, which are very light in color. What I have always wondered about, whether flocking alone or moving to textured paste plus flocking, is whether to paint the base a green or brown to make sure no area of this light color shows through. Do people do this? Does it affect the adhesion of anything at all, and would you paint before or after glueing figures to the stands? |
Col Durnford | 13 Apr 2024 7:35 a.m. PST |
I always paint both the top and bottom of the base. The color depends on the environment that the figures are used in. This even includes figures that are removed from play when lost as well as those that are just tipped over when they become casualties. |
Disco Joe | 13 Apr 2024 7:42 a.m. PST |
I always paint just the top of the base. |
ZULUPAUL | 13 Apr 2024 7:53 a.m. PST |
I use the green or brown paint to "glue" the flocking on so yes I do paint the bases. I also paint the sides either black or brown. |
Perris0707 | 13 Apr 2024 8:10 a.m. PST |
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The Virtual Armchair General | 13 Apr 2024 9:07 a.m. PST |
I used to. I have gone to clear acrylic bases (rectangular, square, and hex), eliminating the need to do anything to them. Thus, wherever the man/unit stands, it's base always "matches" the terrain beneath it. Works for me! TVAG |
Michael May | 13 Apr 2024 9:08 a.m. PST |
I paint my bases first. Then I glue down my figures. Next I add flocking – usually a mix of saw dusts. Then I paint the flocking. Sometimes I add sawdust or pulverized kitty litter to the paint. I'm one of those people that are constantly on the lookout for new and more complicated ways to base my figures. |
Doug MSC | 13 Apr 2024 9:15 a.m. PST |
I glue the figures to their base first then paint the bases then use flocking material. |
TimePortal | 13 Apr 2024 9:28 a.m. PST |
Yes, back in the old days, pre-2000, I would paint the bases and add flock then for the paint to hold the flock when it dried. |
Extra Crispy | 13 Apr 2024 9:53 a.m. PST |
Pint. Glue down sand. Brown wash. Flock. I only cover about 60% of the base in flock the rest is abre. |
Dagwood | 13 Apr 2024 9:58 a.m. PST |
I base 25/28mm figures only, the figure basses are significantly thick. I glue down the figures, paint the bases a brown colour, then add a millimetre or so of air-drying clay. This is painted again with the same brown colour before sand and flock are glued to it with PVA. The first paint coat helps to prevent the bases warping as they absorb moisture from the clay. |
Dashetal | 13 Apr 2024 10:36 a.m. PST |
I game in 28mm. I paint small areas of the bases and then sprinkle whatever scenic I want into the wet paint, repeat and repeat usually to allow 3 textures to show and then spray with a sealant. I keep in mind what type of terrain they most commonly fought in or over. |
Joes Shop | 13 Apr 2024 10:39 a.m. PST |
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robert piepenbrink | 13 Apr 2024 10:56 a.m. PST |
I paint a mix of cheap paint and white glue on the top of a base, then dip in flock. (Paint is brown, reddish-brown, green or black depending on flock.) Base edge follows, matching anticipated board/mat. Inevitably, this means sometimes urban-based Imperial Storm Troopers or Mega-City Judges fight grass-based Ewoks or Sand-based Jawas or Green Martians. I'm thinking my best solution is some sort of army-level morale penalty--probably a higher break point--for forces so clearly outside of their usual environment. |
Fitzovich | 13 Apr 2024 11:00 a.m. PST |
Clear bases for me whenever possible. As TVAG stated no painting, no flocking, no mess. |
Bobgnar | 13 Apr 2024 12:06 p.m. PST |
Hey "Clear Base" guys. Do you cut off the figure's base leaving just the feet? Then what kind of glue to you use to hold that small area to the clear base? Thanks |
McKinstry | 13 Apr 2024 12:29 p.m. PST |
I use fiber paste or sand depending but if using the paster, I mix it with the preferred base color and once dry, hit it with a wash and drybrush before flocking. If sand, I mix the preferred base color with PVA glue before applying the sand and then also mix the preferred base color with PVA for flocking. |
YogiBearMinis | 13 Apr 2024 2:05 p.m. PST |
I never thought of mixing paint and glue. |
Louis XIV | 13 Apr 2024 2:07 p.m. PST |
Texture paint is, well, paint so I do not. I thin the paint if I need to cover the odd tactical rock. |
DisasterWargamer | 13 Apr 2024 3:05 p.m. PST |
Paint, then glue then flocking |
Sgt Slag | 13 Apr 2024 6:23 p.m. PST |
PVA Glue brushed onto MDF/plywood bases, swirl them in colored sand mixtures, and done. No muss, no fuss. Fast, efficient, decent appearance. Glue applied to paint, forms a weak bond. Glue to MDF/plywood, forms a strong bond. Cheers! |
Sgt Slag | 13 Apr 2024 6:28 p.m. PST |
Bobgnar, I used 2-part epoxy for metal figures on clear acrylic plastic bases. Strong bond! I often painted their molded base black, to appear as a shadow, diminishing it's visual impact. Cheers! |
Yellow Admiral | 13 Apr 2024 8:33 p.m. PST |
I stopped painting my bases when I started using a one-step mixture of PVA glue, dark brown acrylic paint, potting soil, and water, inspired by Mateus. I apply the mixture, place bushes and tufts, sprinkle on some dirt-colored sand, then dip the base in a grass mixture, and set it aside to dry. - Ix |
doubleones | 13 Apr 2024 10:48 p.m. PST |
Nearly always; the base is every bit as important and the model it supports. My exceptions would be things like my 1/72 rank and file minis, but the bases are still spray-painted before flocking / static grass. |
Oberlindes Sol LIC | 14 Apr 2024 8:53 a.m. PST |
Paint first, then flock, regardless of scale. I am moving toward transparent bases, but I am too lazy and not dextrous enough to cut away the bases that are molded with the miniature and glue just the feet to the transparent base. So I'll still be painting those bases, but I have been trying a generic color scheme of dark grays and browns to see if the miniatures will look OK regardless of table. I'm not flocking those. |
The Virtual Armchair General | 14 Apr 2024 10:21 a.m. PST |
Bobgnar! Can't speak or any other folks who use--or are considering using--clear acrylic bases, but I don't do anything to the cast base of the figure. That is, I don't go to special lengths to remove it, though I have cut some down a bit. However, I do paint the base a dark gray color to give a sort of "shadow at noon" look to the figures. Obviously, bare metal is right out, but a sort of neutral, unobtrusive color allows the figure(s) to be the focus of the eye, rather than the base. Of course, the smaller the cast base the better, and cutting some of an oversized base is helpful, but between the terrain on the table, and the uniform/costume of the figure, the cast base issue doesn't seem to be a problem. Cheers! TVAG |
Gallocelt | 14 Apr 2024 11:48 a.m. PST |
On my bases, I usually apply some acrylic spackle mixed with brown & black inks. This results in a brownish grey soil-looking compound that covers the metal bases so the figures appear to be standing on the ground. Of course, this hardens and gives the figures even more stability. Sometimes I paint this but if the earth tone of the spackle is about right for the area of conflict, I don't need to paint. The bottom of the base is sheet magnet so no paint there. Cheers!
Gallo |
DeRuyter | 15 Apr 2024 9:47 a.m. PST |
I use Vallejo texture paste first then once dry flock/grass tufts. For 15mm or smaller I just stick the figures in the wet paste and for 28mm I glue the figure on first then spread the paste. I tend to highlight the paste with a drybrush to get some depth to it. I use clear bases for ships. Looking to try them for 28mm Old West. I have 3d printed figures so no worries about an extra molded base. |
Sgt Slag | 15 Apr 2024 10:46 a.m. PST |
For clear bases, I suggest a matte clear coat to dull the reflection/shine. I found their reflective surface to be a really bad distraction, completely ruining the purpose of using a clear base! This issue varies with the lighting in use within the game room. By spraying a matte clear coat, the clear acrylic bases become translucent, showing the underlying terrain, without the glare effect, no matter the lighting source or its position relative to the figure bases. I found it quite effective. Cheers! |
AussieAndy | 16 Apr 2024 9:57 a.m. PST |
Paint bases of figures. Glue figures to mdf bases. Paint mdf bases. Brush on PVA glue. Dip in flock. When dry, brush figures to ensure that there is no flock on them. Spray with sealant. |
Elenderil | 17 Apr 2024 8:39 a.m. PST |
I paint the base in a grass green (Humbrol spray) I paint the figure bases a sandy brown. After gluing the figures to the base I slap on a coat of wood glue up to the edges of the cast on base of the figures and dunk it in fine sand. Lastly I apply random patches of flock including some on the figures cast on base. Overall if I have missed any spots the initial grass green doesn't jar with the rest of the basing material. |